What’s inside the £1,000 moisturisers?

La Prairie Platinum Rare Haute-Rejuvenation Cream

Inspired by the work of Dr Paul Niehaus, a pioneer of regenerative medicine who was based at the Clinique La Prairie clinic in Switzerland, this cream is designed to help slow the ageing process by reanimating sluggish cells. As we age, cellular activities slow and over time the stem cell activity in the different layers declines, causing weaker function and thinner skin. This formula is centred on La Prairie’s secret, patented cellular complex, which works on epidermal stem cell renewal, helping to speed up cell turnover as we age. It is paired with a platinum multipeptide (a mix of three peptides attached to spherical platinum particles) that supports collagen formation and the cell renewal process. Surprisingly for such a potent cream, Platinum Rare feels light and does seem to smooth skin, and clinical trials have proved that long-term use can help to re-establish skin density. £1,345 for 50ml, harveynichols.com

Guerlain Orchidée Impériale Black The Cream

The backstory of this cream reads like a fairytale: harnessing the regenerative power of the rare black orchid, an exotic yet hardy bloom that grows in the shade of the Andes, the French heritage brand Guerlain is capitalising on a different kind of flower power. In its own orchidarium (the first research centre dedicated to the study of the orchids), scientists found that when extracts of black orchid were applied to skin it created a remarkable shield against pollution and environmental stress, in addition to moisturising. This breakthrough was branded BlackImmune technology, and the claim is that the orchid extract targets 95 per cent of the epidermal cells (the Langerhans cells) via proteins in the skin that are involved in constantly monitoring our environment. It was tested on 15 women, using instruments to measure wrinkles and moisture, and findings an hour after application showed a 47 per cent improvement on wrinkle depth and optimal skin hydration after six hours. The packaging is also highly covetable, with refillable porcelain jars (£880 per refill) that are handcrafted in Limoges. But for those who really want to pimp their pot, 15 limited Art Edition creams, created by the Swiss designer Kevin Germanier (famed for his bold upcycled fashion worn by Lady Gaga and Taylor Swift) are available and feature recycled beads and Swarovski crystals — yours for a mere £9,000. £1,180 for 50ml, selfridges.com

Clé de Peau Synactif Intensive Cream

Backed by 20 years of extensive research into the lymphatic system in collaboration with the Cutaneous Biology Research Center at Massachusetts General Hospital, the aim of the Synactif line is to target the skin’s natural processes of purification. It’s inspired by detoxifying spa treatments and the theory is that the removal of impurities (such as cellular debris and altered proteins) creates an optimal condition for the skin to thrive and regenerate. Clé de Peau, which is owned by the Japanese skincare giant Shiseido, has access to a dedicated research team that developed an effective botanical blend of lamium leaf, cinnamon and white mulberry bark extracts that were found to help keep the skin’s natural purifying network in the best condition and slow down deterioration due to ageing. Synactif Intensive Cream is formulated with no fewer than 20 active ingredients. Its unique manufacturing process and equipment, specially designed for this cream, means it takes three times longer to make than a conventional cream and only a few people are qualified to work on it. With continued use clinical evaluations showed an increase of skin firmness, elasticity and a brighter complexion from the first two weeks. The results of these clinical trials were further endorsed by consumers who said that their facial skin appeared clearer and firmer and had sharper contours. £1,075 for 40ml, harrods.com

Decorté AQ Meliority Cream

Fusing high-tech innovations with ancient eastern wisdom, Decorté — a Japanese skincare brand beloved of Kate Moss (who was its ambassador before she created her own brand) — has created what’s essentially Spanx for ageing skin, using liposomal capsule technology to coat the 30 active ingredients with phospholipids (fatty acids) that allow penetration through the stratum corneum (the outer layer of skin), delivering nutrients and improving firmness and texture. It’s a rich formula that’s best used at night, and the star ingredient is Benifuki extract, an organic green tea plant grown on Yakushima, an island off the coast of Japan. Benifuki has been shown in clinical trials to protect and improve the storage of growth factors — an important breakthrough as they stimulate skin cells to function well (the older we get the more susceptible growth factors are to being destroyed and damaged). Both clinical testers and consumers report an improvement in skin firmness and texture. £950 for 45ml, harrods.com

Sisley Supremÿa At Night

This cream promises a glowing complexion by working on the key factors of skin renewal. First, scientists have discovered that it’s not only the brain but also the skin that releases melatonin (the sleep hormone) while we sleep, and topical melatonin such as this plays a fundamental role in regulating our skin’s nocturnal cycle. At night cells adopt a different rhythm than during the day and Sisley Laboratories spent 15 years researching the workings of the nocturnal cellular cycle to create a formula that activates the night-time rejuvenation of skin. The complex delivers the right dose of active ingredients and plant extracts that work to stimulate the production of melatonin, which in turn produces sirtuins, also called “youth proteins”. These are in charge of quality control and ensure that when cells replicate they are healthy, improving longevity. The complex also works to detox skin by enabling the continual recycling of proteins and stimulating a process called autophagy, a form of cellular cleaning that helps cells to eliminate oxidised proteins. Come morning your skin should be functioning more efficiently, ensuring a clearer, brighter complexion to boot. The only thing this cream won’t improve is your sleep. Sadly all that melatonin is not absorbed into the bloodstream. £580 for 50ml, selfridges.com

111Skin Celestial Black Diamond Cream

Developed by the London-based cosmetic surgeon Dr Yannis Alexandrides, the Black Diamond Cream contains NAC (N-Acetyl Cysteine), an ingredient often used in hospitals to prevent side-effects caused by drug reactions and toxic chemicals and famously tested on astronauts in supplement form in space where it was found to inhibit fatigue. Back on Earth, rather than a pill, Alexandrides has created a topical NAC-Y 2, a proprietary blend of NAC with brightening vitamin C and horse-chestnut extract. Also in the mix are diamond particles that have a mild exfoliating action on the skin, as well as more traditional ingredients such as Retinyl Palmitate, a form of vitamin A that helps boost collagen, and hyaluronic acid for hydrating and plumping. Alexandrides says: “I measure the benefits of my skincare products in how they prolong my office procedures — they have to have visible results that enhance both my surgical and non-surgical treatments.” £599 for 50ml, 111skin.com

Lyma Skin Serum and Cream

“A feat of engineering, this is less a moisturiser and more a topical treatment,” says Lyma co-founder Lucy Goff, who employed a team of plastic surgeons, dermatologists, geneticists and biochemical engineers to create this dynamic two-step routine. The formula is packed with cutting-edge active ingredients that give the products a strong medicinal smell and vivid mustard-yellow hue. These include SNAP-8, which minimises the appearance of expression lines by inhibiting acetylcholine (a neurotransmitter), which in turn reduces muscle contractions, so when you frown, grimace or smile the expression lines will be less pronounced. Then there’s Aurafirm P, an active ingredient derived from fermented oat — the fermentation process increases the concentration and bio-availability of key beneficial nutrients, allowing it to have prebiotic, probiotic and postbiotic effects on the skin. This helps to maintain the natural ratio of its microbial population. There’s also Quercetin, a natural flavonoid with powerful antioxidant activity — clinical trials have demonstrated that it can balance the skin when it presents allergy-like symptoms, thereby soothing and reducing redness. The formula is so comprehensive it must be applied in two steps: a serum first, followed by the cream. Recommended for those wanting results over a luxury experience. £495 for 100ml, lyma.life

Dr Barbara Sturm MC1 Cream

Dr Sturm, who trained as an orthopaedic doctor before turning her attention to skin, has a legion of A-list fans including Hailey Bieber, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Emily Ratajkowski. Inspired by the success of the Platelet-Rich Plasma facial — AKA the vampire facial — that uses plasma drawn from the patient’s own blood, which is injected back into skin, Sturm’s cream is also infused with the patient’s white blood cells, offering the ultimate customisation. The cream is odourless, must be kept refrigerated to protect active ingredients and has a shelf life of about one month. Using a method that Sturm wishes to keep a trade secret, the white blood cells are combined with anti-interluukin-1 (anti-inflammatory proteins) and TGF- beta (proteins produced by white blood cells that help to strengthen tissue and stimulate collagen growth). Sturm suggests that the cream can be used to improve myriad skin concerns from acne scarring and breakouts to the side effects of ageing. To sceptics that question that these factors can remain active in the cream, Dr Sturm explains, “Blood is a highly saturated solution that mixes well with cream formulations, which are usually a blend of fats, water and actives. When the growth factors are combined with the MC1 base cream, they stay in the water phase and hence can maintain their activity.” £1,100 for 50ml, drsturm.com